6. The Little House

As our time on Corsica was coming to an end, we thought it might be nice to re-visit some of the people and places that we had been so fortunate to encounter. The sun was bright in the sky – a welcome sight after some rainy days prior. This particular day had an added significance. It was Uli's birthday – and what better way to celebrate than a hike in the hills. But of course – this hike would have a purpose. We wanted to descend from Monticello and explore the small back roads, to see if we might find our final location – the Little House.

To get to Monticello, we first took our favourite mode of transport “U Trinicellu” – the little train – as far as L'Ille Rousse. On arrival it was fun to retrace our steps along the pier, once again passing the spot where Lupus and Mr. Button disembarked. The site of our very first discovery!

From there we strolled along Promenade de la Marinella, an elevated walkway which takes visitors directly to the wonderful beach. It was 10am and already some people were seated in the sand while others strolled along the shore. From there, we made our way over to the main square – named for the general of the Corsican insurrection (1753) and leader of the independent Corsican Republic (1755) - Pascal Paoli.

Stopping for a swift coffee at Café des Platanes we took advantage of the lovely weather and simply sat a while. Not far from us some people played boules in front of La Glacier while a small tourist train passed along the road. Now that we had discovered many filming locations we had no further use for some of the screen capture photographs. We decided it would be right to hand the relevant paper photos to Stéphane whom we met in blog entry No. 3 and to Nicole at her shop. You can read about our meeting Nicole in blog entry No. 2. As it happened this shop was en route to the bus stop. It would be nice to pop in for a short conversation and to say a final farewell and thank her for her time, which we duly did.

Soon we were back aboard the mini bus and welcomed by the same driver from our first trip Jean-André. Once again we enjoyed the beautiful views as we ascended to Monticello. Disembarking close to Église Saint-Sébastien we bade our driver farewell and strolled over to the restaurant which features in our blog entry No. 3. Once again we were greeted by the owner Stéphane who took our order – two Pietra beers. Well, it was Uli's birthday after all! It was too early for lunch so we sat and enjoyed the peaceful surroundings of this lovely hillside village. I fetched from my bag a digital copy of the sketch below. This sketch features the little house of Toughy, Smarty and Mouse as it was in 1970. The artist is P.J. Muir - the son of Frank Muir, who played Dr. Hopper. It was given to Joy and family during their extended stay on the island way back in 1970. 

The wonderful sketch of the Little House dating from 1970 © P.J. Muir

We showed this sketch to Stéphane as we sipped our beers. We told him of our small mission to try discover the location of this little house. We knew that it could be somewhere in the valley below and that we were going to hike down – once our beers had been savoured appropriately! Stéphane studied the sketch but could not be certain of its location. There are hundreds of these little structures on the island after all. We garnered a further clue when one of the bar patrons came out to join us and to view the sketch on the iPad. He too was not certain but drew our attention to the outline of the hills which appear behind the house. He gestured toward the rear of the restaurant, and suggested that those hills were in that direction . We thanked him and took the last sips of our cool beers. We handed Stéphane the paper photograph which featured his father JoJo. It would be a nice memento for him. He was grateful and we exchanged farewells before we set off.

We took a street which descended steeply at the rear of the restaurant. The weather was beautiful, with strong sun beaming onto the the terracotta roof tiles – and onto our skin. We took a seat on a wall at the Mairie de Monticello (Mayors office) to apply sunscreen, to drink some water and to plan a possible route which might take us down into the valley. Looking at a map, we identified two possible routes down. One short direct route and another slightly longer, meandering route. Discussing these options, Uli suggested we take the longer route. It was a beautiful day after all and it was his birthday. What better way to celebrate than a walk in nature. He had decided that even if we were not successful in finding the location, we should enjoy this blissful afternoon and the wonderful surroundings come what may. We could not have guessed at the good fortune that was to come our way on this special day.

Our descent took us along a paved road at first, passing some wonderfully characterful properties nestled along the hillside. Large cactus plants lined the roadside which was now becoming narrower with each step until eventually the road surface became a rocky unpaved trail. This trail was bounded on each side by some old dry stone walls which contained dozens of lizards, many of whom darted from stone to stone as we passed. Some were happy to pose for photos while others disappeared from view instantly.

Occasionally the thick hedgerows and tall trees created a tunnel of welcome shade. It was a leisurely hike but only because we were descending. After a period of steady descent we arrived at another paved road. The tranquil ambience which we had thus far enjoyed was interrupted by the sound of a quad bike. Aboard were a man and presumably his young son who smiled and waved as they zoomed noisily past. They went uphill, as we continued our descent along the tiny road.

Above us a bird of prey swooped majestically upon a thermal. It was either a falcon, a kestrel, a hawk or an osprey – all of which can be found in Corsica. A beautiful bird which had us craning our necks in awe as it passed close overhead. From here the road took us on a gentle descent past some beautiful rural properties – one of which had a very inviting blue swimming pool. Soon we arrived at a fork in the road. Unsure which way to go, the silence was again interrupted as we pondered our best route. This time by a rather curious whirring sound. We turned to witness a very French scene indeed. A gleaming classic Citroen Acadiane rounded a corner. We felt as if we had entered a time portal to 1970. We smiled and waved to the driver as he passed and watched as this lovely old machine puttered and whirred its way into the distance. How lovely it would be to explore the island in such an old machine. We took this arrival as a signal to take the left route. We stopped to gaze into a private lemon grove which lay behind a low stone wall. Such neatly arranged rows of citrus trees are a real novelty to our non-mediterranean eyes. In the distance someone was cutting grass.

Uli points toward the bird which seemed to circle our eventual destination just before we encountered a Citroën Acadiane and we passed a beautiful citrus grove.

Onwards we walked leaving the lemon grove behind, enjoying this peaceful road and the hot sun of this late April afternoon. Looking to the hills – I could see that the shape on the horizon did indeed match the hills in the sketch by P.J. Muir. Surely we were on the right track. At every field and private garden we passed – we made a point to peer inside to any distant stone structure. Would the little house lay there? Often we passed directly by a roadside stone hut but none that matched. The image of the boys house is by now forever ingrained in our collective minds. We would surely recognise it instantly.

As we walked on, the sound of a grass trimmer - or lawn mower - became louder. We followed the property boundary for a short distance. We could not see any person but the noise seemed to emanate from within. Inside this field were many olive, juniper and pine trees which obscured the view. As we ambled along the narrow country roadway, we spied a small stone building among these trees. This building did not really resemble the “Little House” - at least from our viewing angle. There were no windows or doors. It was perhaps 50 metres inside the property boundary. Nevertheless, Uli took a photo and as he did so he noted an olive tree right next to it.

“Could that be the olive tree?” he mused “It looks to be the right size.”

Uli was correct, the olive tree did indeed look like the tree beneath which the boys often sat. Suddenly my attention was drawn to a gateway and dusty driveway which seemed to lead into the property. I immediately jogged ahead. Upon arrival at my new vantage point I could see something extraordinary ! Just inside the gate was a cistern – a large concrete water tank which looked very much like a decrepit swimming pool. Just like the cistern featured in the Grasshopper Island TV series - although now overgrown. I decided to stand on the stone wall – and through some bushes – I saw it! The little building that Uli had glimpsed moments earlier, was now easier to see from this new viewing angle. It had indeed a sloping tiled roof, which had a tiny “chimney” on top. Beneath the sloping roof were two doors matching exactly the “Little House” of Toughy, Smarty and Mouse!

“This is it !” I exclaimed “I really think this is it!”

Discovered! The little house (left) in 1970 and how it looked in April 2024 (right)

Uli came walking calmly along the road to the gateway, smiling from ear to ear. There we both stood staring and shaking our heads in disbelief for several minutes.

“It still exists. More than fifty years have passed – and yet here it sits.” I pondered in a reverential tone.

I could see that Uli was becoming a little emotional as he surveyed our discovery, but he chose to smile and chuckle rather than weep. Peering through the wire fencing which ran along the stone boundary wall of the property, we could see for certain that this building was the one. Several times I heard him repeat softly the words “I can't believe it ... I can't believe my eyes”. You see - it had been a childhood dream of his to one day discover the beach. But to also discover the little house? Well that was almost too much to hope for!

Everything had gone quiet. The distant noise of the mechanical grass trimmer had stopped by now and only birdsong occupied the gentle breeze surrounding us. We decided to take a seat on the low stone wall, to sip some water and to pinch ourselves. How tempting it was to simply run inside! We were so close – we could have sprinted inside and touched it if we were brave! We were both thinking it - after all the gate was wide open. But of course we knew the reality – we must not trespass. So we amused ourselves by taking some distant photos and video clips from where we were. We noted that there was a mailbox attached to the old stone gatepost. Clearly somebody lived on the property. Should we write a note and leave our contact details? After some discussion, we decided that this was the best option. Perhaps the owner would read our note and get in touch in the coming days. Uli took a seat in the shade directly next to a stone gatepost. I crouched down and opened my small rucksack and took a blank page from my notebook. Using an online translator, I set about writing a note in French for the property owner. How exactly to begin? Should I write :

“Dear Sir / Madam, We are visiting from abroad and would like to photograph your little farm building. Did you know it was once featured on a British television series?” 

 or 

“Hello! We are two likable strangers who would like to visit the little stone house on your property? Did you know it was featured on a British children's TV show?”

As I struggled with this dilemma – my concentration was interrupted by the sound of a vehicle approaching. It was coming up the track of the property. Panicking slightly – I stood immediately and blurted “Oh someone is coming!” as I retook my seat on the little stone wall. Before I had time to think further, a car emerged from the gate and stopped directly beside us. I really had no idea what might transpire at this moment, or what we might say, if anything. But I needn't have worried. With the greatest of ease and in perfectly rehearsed joviality Uli proclaimed loudly “Bonjour Madam!” - arms aloft and smiling broadly.

“Bonjour Monsuier, Ça va?” the lady replied before switching off the diesel engine.

Now, I could continue to write paragraphs about what happened next. But I have come to realise, dear reader, that by now you have probably noticed the video panel below. You are eager to press the play button, and who can blame you? But before (or after) you do so, please scroll down. Uli would like to say a few words.

 

Then and now: A short video of our unexpected discovery of and visit to The Little House!
© Grasshopper Productions (1970) and GrasshopperIsland.net (2024)

 

 

A word from Uli on his birthday

“After almost two weeks on this wonderful island, the many discoveries and beautiful encounters with very special people, you would think that this could not be surpassed. And yet our adventures were crowned with the discovery of the little old cottage.

Yes, I had well imagined finding the cottage, but could I have imagined standing right in front of it, enjoying the sight in the shade of the old olive tree? Not at all.

But as it says in the story of our three young adventurers: “And whether it was luck this time, or the fact that Smarty knew what he wanted (and sometimes, if you know what you want, you get it),..."

Mission accomplished. There could not have been a better birthday present. I have to say, that the whole time on Grasshopper Island felt like a very big birthday present. I am very grateful for every day on this beautiful island.

But wait, isn't there something essential missing? Has anyone thought of the "Buttons Blue"?"

There he is ! the Buttons Blue! Photo composed by Uli - Haute Corse April 2024